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I’ve recently had some new found time on my hands, and I’ve been feeling rather creative. So, when my mom told me she was planning a baby shower for my cousin, I knew I wanted to hand make her something – something that would last. It took some thought, but I’m excited to share with you this custom wall art tutorial. I am absolutely in love with the results!
Since my husband is a (the best) finish carpenter (yes, I’m totally bias), it was fairly easy to come by most of the material without having a large out-of-pocket expense. I already had an image of what I wanted in my head, so I headed to the good ol’ scrap shed and searched ’til I found what I needed. I’m so excited to share this with you! It was such a success at the shower that I got a few orders lined up.
Here’s a list of the items you’ll need before you head out to your local home improvement store – or to the ‘good ole wood shed’ in your back yard. If the latter is the case, check out the cuts below so you know exactly what lengths you’re looking for.
MATERIALS for Wall Art Tutorial:
- (1) – 1″ x 6″ x 12′ tongue and groove pine board
- (1)- 1″ X 3″ x 12′ finger joint board
- Wood filler
- 1 1/4″ finish nails
- Paint brush
- Hooks for hanging
- Cloth OR foam brush for staining
- Liquid Nails Multi-purpose Adhesive
- Wood stain of choice (for the sign background)
- Paint of choice (for letters and trim)
- Letters or word(s)
- Glitter (optional)
- Flowers (optional; I found mine at Dollar Tree)
- Hot glue sticks (if applying flowers)
TOOLS for Wall Art Tutorial:
- Table saw (or you can go to your local home improvement store to have them make the cuts)
- 23 gauge nail gun
- Sanding sponge OR sand paper
- Hot glue gun (if applying flowers)
Let’s get started!
Make Your Cuts
Since we’re only using one type of saw for this project, it’s easier to make all the cuts first. Then, you can continue on with the remaining customization without having to run back to the saw in between.
First, you want to cut the tongue and groove board into (3) 33″ pieces. These are straight edges, no angles. Make sure to mark, then cut. Mark, then cut.
Next, cut the finger board to form the frame. All of these will be cut at a 45° angle.
The inside trim (which will lay on top of the tongue and groove board) measurements are as follows:
Left & Right Sides – 15 7/8″
Top & Bottom – 33″
For the outside trim, you will adjust the blade angle to 45°, and the bottom plate will be straight.
The outside trim measurements are as follows:
Left & Right Sides – 17 3/8″
Top & Bottom – 34 9/16″
Now we can get to the fun stuff!
Stain the Background
Before attaching any of the pieces, stain the cut tongue and groove boards. You only need to stain the front of each one. The sides will be covered, and the back will be painted to give it a finished look.
For staining, I used an old t-shirt, but you can opt to use a foam brush if you prefer. Using gloves, I just dipped it in the can and wiped it on the wood. I didn’t put on a heavy coat at first, because I wanted to make sure I didn’t get it darker than I wanted. I ended up going back over it a second time though. For the stain, I used Minwax PolyShades in Mission Oak; my new favorite stain color.
Let the stain dry completely before moving on to the next step.
Assemble The Frame
First, interlock the tongue and groove pieces, and make sure they’re flush on each end.
Next, lay the inside trim on top of the tongue and groove boards, and make the cut edges line up flush. Nail each board on, adjusting the pieces to make sure the cut ends stay in line as you go.
The outside trim is last. Place each board in place as you did with the inside trim, making sure the corners line up. You will definitely want to make sure you’re working on a smooth surface for this. Nail each board on making sure your corners stay aligned.
Prepare For Paint
Now that your frame is assembled, it’s time to prepare for paint. Let’s fill those nail holes.
Using the wood filler, fill in each nail hole and any spots in the wood that you want to disguise. Try to pack it in smooth, and let it try according to the directions on the wood filler packaging.
Then, you’ll want to sand the excess wood filler for a smooth paint job. For this step, I used a sanding block. You could just use a sheet of sand paper, but I prefer the easier grip and use of the sanding block.
Lastly, in order to keep the paint from running onto the stained background, I used some painters tape to go around the inner corners.This was a life saver. I am totally a sloppy painter.
For the paint, I used a custom Behr color that was left over from a previous project. I used two coats and let dry completely between each. Make sure to paint the back the same color for a finished look.
While the paint dries, now’s the time to work on your lettering.
I painted the ‘S’ with Waverly Semi-Gloss Acrylic Paint in the color blossom.
For the ‘A’ and ‘L’, I used a gold spray paint. While the paint was still wet, I sprinkled gold glitter over the letters so it would adhere directly to the paint.
Once everything is dry, it’s time to attach your finishing touches. I squeezed Liquid Nails Adhesive in a tube onto the back of each letter and placed it on the background. You may want to sit something heavy on your lettering to ensure a tight adhesion.
Next, I pulled my dollar store flowers off the stems, and attached them with hot glue.
Lastly, attach the hooks for hanging to the back of the frame.
Enjoy Your Custom Wall Art Creation
I hope you enjoy your custom wood framed wall art. I have to say, I was definitely proud of myself for this one. More importantly, my cousin loved it, and I know it’s something that she will use in her baby girl’s room for years to come.
Don’t forget to save this post to Pinterest to view later!